DROP into the McDonald's branch in Syntagma, the central square of Athens, at this time of year and you will find that "fast food" has a double meaning. Along with the familiar burgers and fries, customers have the option of meals that conform with the dietary rules observed by Orthodox Christians during Lent: essentially vegan, though shellfish are allowed. Spring rolls and shrimp burgers loom large. Greek-owned chains tempt the pious with spinach in filo pastry and (a real ascetic feat) potato pies. In Moscow, by contrast, gourmet restaurants offer Lenten menus which promise to be as succulent, and are certainly as expensive as the carnivorous alternative.
